Historically, the Kalangi was worn by kings and royalty. In Persia, the turban or hat ornament is called jikka or jiqa, meaning crest or tuft; in Turkey, it is called sorguch. Mughal emperors in the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries and select members of the royal court were permitted to wear turban ornaments as a sign of rank. During Shah Jahan’s reign the Kalangi appeared as an ornate and heavily jewelled brooch with a stylised plume. Today, it is worn mainly by the bridegroom for a royal look.

Though often the words Sarpech and Kalangi are used interchangeably, there is a slight difference between the two head ornaments. The Sarpech made up of two words Sar, head or front and pech, meaning screw, literally means a jewel screwed onto the front of the turban. It is a flat (hamwar) single sheet of metal with gemstones and pearls set in its hollow construction. Its design consists of a centrepiece with one or more upward or sideward extensions. The backside is exquisitely enamelled. A Sarpech, with one upward rising unit, is called ek Kalangi, while with three projections, it is called teen Kalangi. While a Sarpech is always placed in the front of the turban, an ek Kalangi or teen Kalangi can be placed either in the front or side. Also, a Sarpech is more elaborate with floral motifs, while the Kalangi is more uncomplicated. In the past, wealthy Indian women decorated their hats with gold ornaments known as Sarpech, aigrette, and sorguch.

Making a traditional Kalangi is time-consuming and expensive as it is hand-crafted by skilled artisans using precious metals and gemstones. However, today, Kalangis are mass-produced with alloys and synthetic gemstones, making them available and affordable to any groom. Whether hand-made or machine-made, few processes are common to both. 

The first stage in making a Kalangi is the development of design. Kalangis typically feature flowers, birds, and paisley in their motifs. The design may be inspired by Mughal art and architecture. The designer prepares a sketch or CAD drawing that contains complete details of the size, shape, materials, and embellishments needed to make the Kalangi.

Next is the manufacturing stage. It begins with preparing the base gold, silver, brass, or alloy sheets and strips. Next, the motif design is engraved and embossed on the metal. Once complete, the stones are mounted to the Kalangi using a prong or bezel setting and sometimes glue. Sometimes, techniques like kundan or meenakari are used to enhance the visual appeal. Finally, the artisan adds embellishments like a peacock feather, pearl drop, etc., to complete the design.

Once done, the artisan sends the piece for final polishing. On return from polishing, the back pin is attached to the piece and checked for any scratches and loose stones. After the pieces pass quality control, the Kalangi is ready for pricing, packaging, and sale.

The Kalangi is an elegant turban ornament that serves as a symbol of cultural heritage while adding aesthetic appeal to any ceremonial attire. From an ornament reserved for Kings, today, the Kalangi can be worn by anyone. Initially made from gold, diamonds, and other precious stones, Kalangis are now available in alloy and synthetic stones, making them more accessible to the modern groom.

Over centuries, Kalangis have also reflected changes in design. In the Mughal period, they were more intricately designed, whereas during the British colonisation, they blended Indian motifs with Western styles. Likewise, Kalangis made during the Art Deco movement were more geometric, whereas today, they are more structured and minimalist. Personalised Kalangis tailored to match the outfit have also become popular. The Kalangi has evolved from a symbol of royalty to a symbol of cultural heritage.