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Brooches

Brooches

The brooch is a clasp or pin sometimes referred to by the Latin term fibula. It is a jewellery item made of silver, gold, or other alloys that may be embellished with gemstones or pearls. Though traditionally, men and women wore brooches on a jacket, turban, blouse, or hat, sometimes it is used as a hair accessory. While aeons earlier, it served as a garment fastener, it has now re-emerged as a decorative ornament. Brooches have come a long way, from simple fastening clips used by the Romans to becoming accessories of distinction in present-day designer wear.

Tracing The History

The first documented brooches from the Bronze Age (3300BC -1200BC) were crafted from flint, thorns, and base metals like copper and bronze. They consisted of a simple pin fastened into a circular ring that helped to secure heavy cloaks and tunics worn during the heavy winters. In the Iron Age between 1200BC and 550BC, as metalworking technology advanced, the bow, the plate, and the penannular (ring-shaped with an opening in circumference) brooches displayed copper and iron wire designs. 
Brooch origin: Brooches originated as functional fasteners, later evolving into decorative and symbolic accessories through various historical periods. Then came the medieval brooches, whose designs were influenced by the Migration period, Anglo-Saxons, Celtics, and Scandinavians. The round shape gave way to a few non-circular styles like strip brooches, making them fashionable, too. Brooch designs consisted of birds, wheels, hearts, and cross motifs. Till the late medieval era, men and women continued to wear brooches to fasten clothing at the neck. Sometimes, these brooches carried simple inscriptions on the gold or silver metal base.

By the arrival of the Byzantine Era 313AD- 1453AD, intricately designed brooches were covered with gemstones, enamelling, and pearls. In this period, clergymen and the elite wore brooches to fasten clothing and to display their wealth and social status. In the early modern jewellery period 1500 to 1800AD, with colonisation expanding, Renaissance, Georgian, and Neoclassical brooches became more ornate with diamonds, gems, and pearls. From the 17th to 20th century, Victorian mourning brooches and geometric Art Deco-style brooches continued to be an essential part of jewellery collections. But at the beginning of World War I, brooches saw a decline and almost disappeared until about two decades earlier, when designers decided to incorporate a modern twist on this timeless piece of jewel. This rich history of brooches showcases their evolution from practical accessories to symbolic, ornamental pieces of fashion.

Brooch designs consisted of birds, wheels, hearts, and cross motifs. Till the late medieval era, men and women continued to wear brooches to fasten clothing at the neck. Sometimes, these brooches carried simple inscriptions on the gold or silver metal base. Brooches embody the enduring charm and timeless appeal of accessories.

By the arrival of the Byzantine Era 313AD- 1453AD, intricately designed brooches were covered with gemstones, enamelling, and pearls. In this period, clergymen and the elite wore brooches to fasten clothing and to display their wealth and social status. In the early modern jewellery period 1500 to 1800AD, with colonisation expanding, Renaissance, Georgian, and Neoclassical brooches became more ornate with diamonds, gems, and pearls. From the 17th to 20th century, Victorian mourning brooches and geometric Art Deco-style brooches continued to be an essential part of jewellery collections. But at the beginning of World War I, brooches saw a decline and almost disappeared until about two decades earlier, when designers decided to incorporate a modern twist on this timeless piece of jewel.

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The Making of Brooches

Making a brooch starts with design conceptualisation. An artist prepares a CAD drawing of the brooch design. The design includes fine details of every component, from the choice of base metal to the shape, size, gemstones, setting style, finishes, etc. 

 

Once the design is approved, the next step is to sit with the kaarigar and explain the exact requirements. The Kaarigar begins with cutting, shaping, and sawing the metal according to the design. Once all the pieces are ready, they are soldered together. 

 

Evolution and Adaption

The brooch has been in existence for centuries. It has evolved from a functional item to a purely decorative accessory. In the Bronze Age, the earliest brooches, called fibulae, were used to fasten garments. Since then, the classical fibula or brooch has adapted to the characteristics, materials, and designs of various periods from the Medieval period across the Renaissance, Baroque, Georgian, and Victorian eras. Knots, hearts, mythological figures, floral motifs, and geometric shapes replaced the simple round pin.

 Also, they became more ornate with precious stones and pearls. Today, brooches have become a versatile fashion accessory. They are available in silver, gold, and alloys. They may contain diamonds and precious coloured stones or cubic zirconia and glass. Their designs are minimalist, vintage-inspired, trendy, and influenced by global designs. 

Occasions

Brooches can be worn on various occasions, from formal to festive and casual to cultural, to add uniqueness to the ensemble and elevate its style. In the office, you can pin a brooch on a dupatta or shirt. You can even wear a tasteful delicate brooch with a suit, blouse, or scarf when attending formal occasions like international conventions, charity dinners, award functions, or fashion shows. There are different types of brooches available.

A brooch is a beautiful accessory to wear to weddings and gala events. You can wear an heirloom vintage brooch on a saree, making it the focal point. You can even wear it as an ornate hairpiece. Similarly, a traditional design brooch can help to elevate the festive look during Diwali, Dussehra, or Eid.

From formal events and festivals, the versatile brooch is also a great accessory for casual outings. Wear it to a birthday party, a dinner date, or a picnic to add a bit of flair to your everyday look. Likewise, you can wear a brooch to a cultural show. Most of all, carry a few pendant brooches while travelling to wear as a pendant or pin on your hat, bag, shoes, or dress.

How to Style Brooches

A beautifully styled brooch can look elegant and classy. With a blazer or jacket, wear a brooch that looks good but does not attract too much attention. Wear a small to medium-sized brooch or two to three small brooches for a more modern, eclectic vibe. Similarly, you can dress up any evening outfit by placing a brooch at the waistline. 

Also, add a sparkle brooch to a monochrome or black evening dress. Another recent emergence is adding small brooches to slippers or stilettos. It is also in-trend to add brooches to a stylish glove cuff, handbag, or cap. No matter how you choose to style a brooch, it’s an exquisite accessory that guarantees to elevate your look. 

Image Credits

Mirraw | Etsy | Cosanostraa | Ajio | Nykaa | Tatacliq